Wind Wave Effects and Conditions for Formation of Beaches between Cape Sivriburun and Cape Emine


Galin Petrov

Abstract:

The article is an attempt for mathematical modeling of the process of influence of wind generated waves on the coastal zone. The orientation of many beaches is the outcome of the long term effects of waves arriving from various directions. These can be expressed as a resultant of wind generated waves, calculated from records of the frequency and strength of onshore winds (Beaufort Scale > 3, that is more than 20 km/h). Typically beaches are modified by erosion and deposition until they become orientated at right angles to this onshore wind resultant. Wind resultants are formed by drawing vectors obtained by multiplying the frequency of winds in each Beaufort Scale (>3) category by the cube of the mean velocity of that category in a directional diagram. Onshore resultants are obtained by taking only the vectors of winds to which the coastline is exposed.

Keywords:

Black Sea, mathematical modeling, wind generated waves, onshore wind resultant, formation of beaches

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